Visiting Casa del Indio Fernández in Coyoacán: A Hidden Gem to See During Day of the Dead in Mexico City

Casa del Indio Fernández: How to Visit This Iconic Coyoacán House During Día de Muertos in Mexico City

Planning a visit to Mexico City and looking for something to do in Coyoacán during Día de Muertos? You’ve come to the right place!

The Casa del Indio Fernández is one of the neighborhood’s most interesting sites, and well worth a visit all year round. Here, you can learn about the life of Emilio Fernández, the great actor and director of the Golden Age of Mexican Cinema, through anecdotes from his films and objects steeped in history.

But during Día de Muertos, the experience becomes even more unique as the house is transformed into a tribute to Mexican culture, with its altars, colors and atmosphere imbued with cinema and tradition.

So, what awaits you during your visit to the Emilio Fernández house? Let’s find out!

Who was El Indio Fernández?

El Indio Fernández, whose real name was Emilio Fernández Romo, was one of the great figures of the Golden Age of Mexican Cinema.

Director, actor and screenwriter, he left his mark on the 1940s and 1950s with films that helped spread the image of Mexico around the world.

He was known as “El Indio” because Emilio Fernández was the son of a Kickapoo woman, an indigenous people of northern Mexico, and he proudly claimed his indigenous roots, which left their mark on his personality and his work.

• In fact, the tour guide told us that he regularly tanned himself to maintain a certain matt skin tone and embody this identity on screen!

Beyond his films, he was close to many of the artistic figures of his time, such as Diego Rivera and María Félix.

La Casa del Indio Fernández: a mythical place in Coyoacán

Located in Coyoacán, Mexico City,Emilio Fernández Romo ‘s house impresses on entering with its massive volcanic stone architecture.

Built in the 1940s by architect Manuel Parra, it reflects the Mexican style of the period: thick walls, sculpted doors, light-filled patios and handcrafted details.

It features personal objects, antique furniture and photographs of El Indio Fernández surrounded by artists of his time.

The house has also been the setting for numerous films, which explains its unique cinematic atmosphere.

Today, a large part of the house has been converted into a museum and opens its doors to the public at weekends, or daily from October 17 to November 2 during Dia de Muertos.

Guided tours are particularly useful for learning about the life of Emilio Fernández and the construction of this house, which has become a landmark of Mexican cultural heritage.

Why visit Casa del Indio Fernández?

A visit to the Casa del Indio Fernández offers a glimpse into the private life of one of Mexican cinema‘s most emblematic actors and directors !

The house, built almost entirely of volcanic stone by architect Manuel Parra, retains the appearance it had in the 1940s and 1950s, when Emilio Fernández lived there.

Inside, there are objects linked to his career, religious and decorative elements from former Puebla monasteries, and talavera mosaics in several spaces.

The house has also been the setting for over 140 films, from classics of theGolden Era of Mexican cinema to more recent productions: El Rapto (1953) with María Félix and Jorge Negrete, and Frida (2002) with Salma Hayek. It’s fair to say that this house is a staple of Mexican cinema.

I took the guided tour without really knowing what to expect, and was surprised by the amount of information shared. As a Canadian, I have to admit that I didn’t know this actor, who is nevertheless mythical in Mexico, but the tour made me want to discover his work.

During the tour, we explore the salons, bedrooms, kitchen, guest dining room and large garden, which features a small pond with ducks.

There are numerous film posters, photos and personal objects (including a collection of sombreros!)

As soon as you enter, you’ll notice a small stable where you can see Olivia, a rescued yearling mare. By the way, all the animals on site have been taken in, even the chickens!

Visit Casa del Indio Fernández during Día de Muertos

I discovered Casa del Indio Fernández during Día de Muertos after seeing a video that piqued my curiosity. In reality, it’s even more impressive than I imagined!

The house, garden and front patio are covered in cempasúchil flowers.

There is also an exhibition of catrinas, numerous altars dedicated to his family and to Mexican artists (such as Paquita la del Barrio, Maria Felix, etc.), as well as an altar in his own room in his honor.

Each space is brimming with decorative and handcrafted objects of every size and color, creating a unique atmosphere.

The large guest dining table, filled with offerings, gives the impression that a celebration is about to begin.

If you’re in Mexico City between late October and early November, a visit to Casa del Indio Fernández during Día de Muertos is a must in Coyoacán!

Practical information for visiting Casa del Indio Fernández

Casa del Indio Fernández is located at 51 Zaragoza Street, in Coyoacán, Mexico City. Admission costs 200 pesos. You don’t need to book in advance: the place isn’t very touristy and, although the number of visitors is limited, it’s rare that there’s a problem getting in.

Visits take place from Thursday to Sunday, from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., in Spanish only. During Día de Muertos, the house opens exceptionally every day, from October 17 to November 2 (the exact start date may vary slightly from year to year).

Guided tours are offered at 12:30, 14:00, 16:00 and 17:00. I happened to arrive five minutes before one of them and decided to join the group: and what a great idea! I highly recommend it, as the guide shares many fascinating anecdotes and details.

The tour is very complete and lasts about 1 h 30.

Tips for enjoying the tour

You can visit Casa del Indio Fernández on your own, but I highly recommend taking a guided tour. I went without really knowing what to expect and, arriving just before a departure, decided to join the group: excellent idea!

The tour lasts about 1 hour 30 minutes. Even without knowing his films, it’s easy to understand the importance of Emilio Fernández and the context of Mexican cinema in the 40s and 50s. In fact, the tour made me want to discover the great classics!

Bring comfortable shoes: there are several narrow staircases and nooks and crannies to explore. Arrive a few minutes early if you wish to join a guided tour.

The best time to visit is Día de Muertos, when the house is open every day from October 17 to November 2, with altars, flowers and candles. It’s a visit to make part of your day in Coyoacán, especially if you’re in Mexico City at that time.

Is it worth the visit?

Yes, definitely. I’ve visited Coyoacán countless times, and I can’t believe it took me seven years in Mexico City to finally discover the Casa del Indio Fernández! It’s one of those little-known cultural sites, far less visited than Frida Kahlo‘s Casa Azul, but well worth the detour.

If you like to discover authentic places steeped in history, this house is a must-see on your Coyoacán itinerary.

Casa del Indio Fernández is ideally located in the historic center of Coyoacán, making it easy to combine its visit with other emblematic sites in the neighborhood.

Just a stone’s throw away are Calle Francisco Sosa, the Centro Cultural Jesús Reyes Heroles and the charming Santa Catarina chapel just across the street.

At the back, you can stroll down the mysterious Callejón del Aguacate, and in just twenty minutes on foot, you’ll reach the Fuente de los Coyotes and the Jardín Hidalgo, the true heart of Coyoacán.

It’s the perfect visit for those looking for something to do in Mexico City beyond the most touristy spots, and who want to immerse themselves in the history of Mexican cinema while enjoying the colonial charm of the district.

FAQ about Casa del Indio Fernández

Is it worth visiting Casa del Indio Fernández even if you’re not familiar with its films?

Yes, without hesitation. I’m not Mexican and I didn’t really know his films before the visit, but I found the place fascinating.

The guide tells a lot of anecdotes about Emilio Fernández, his personality, his social life, the people he knew and the golden age of Mexican cinema, which makes it easier to understand the importance of this place.

By the end, I even wanted to discover his work – and the good news is that several of his films can be found on YouTube (in Spanish) 😉

How long does the tour last?

The guided tour lasts about 1 h 30. It’s very complete and well-paced: you walk through different rooms, discover the director’s personal objects and the architectural details of the volcanic stone house. It’s easy to see why this place has become such a cultural icon in Mexico City.

Can we visit the house without a guide?

Yes, you can, but I highly recommend taking a guided tour.

You learn so much about the life of Emilio Fernández, the films shot in the house and the history of Mexican cinema. It makes the visit much more lively and enriching.

When is the best time to visit Casa del Indio Fernández?

The best time is undoubtedly during Día de Muertos, from October 17 to November 2, when the house is beautifully decorated with altars, flowers and candles.

It’s an experience not to be missed if you’re looking for what to do in Mexico City during Día de Muertos, as few places offer such an authentic atmosphere. But the house is worth a visit all year round, especially if you’re planning to visit Coyoacán.

I hear it’s also decorated for Christmas, and seeing how it was for Día de Muertos, I’m tempted to go back – it must be magical!

Where to stay to visit Coyoacán?

• La Casita de Coyoacan: a cozy house on a peaceful street near Frida’s House. The breakfast is delicious and the rooftop terrace is perfect for relaxing. It is the best place for a budget night in Coyoacan, an expensive neighborhood, starting at only 56 $usd per night!

• Casa Moctezuma: if you have more money, I suggest this place for couples. It is a renovated Coyoacan mansion. Duplexes and apartments, with living room and kitchen, lovely garden and bikes for guests. From only 116 $usd!

• H21 Hospedaje Boutique: the best choice for a luxury stay in Coyoacan. In the center of the neighborhood, close to the main square, it is a small and exclusive hotel with modern studios, high-quality bedding, kingsize beds and terrace or balcony. From 138 $usd per night

You can also stay in another neighborhood to be closer to the other tourist attractions of Mexico City:

• Hostel Mundo Joven Catedral (historic center): one of the best hostels in Mexico City. Clean dorms and rooms, amazing rooftop terrace with bar, great atmosphere and an exceptional view over the cathedral and the Zocalo, starting at 15$usd for a dorm and 32 $usd for a private room!

• Hotel Villa Condesa (Condesa): if you are looking for a romantic hotel in Mexico City, this is a little oasis in the heart of La Condesa. It is an elegant house with small green terraces and tastefully decorated rooms. Rooms are spacious, breakfast is very good and the service is particularly attentive. Around 160$usd per night!

• Casa Goliana (Roma Norte): high-end hotel with the best value for money in its category, located in an early 20th century house, typical of the Roma area. Rooftop terrace, comfortable rooms, very attentive staff, and good breakfasts. Around 190$usd per night

• Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City (Juarez): this 5 star hotel is one of the best hotels in Mexico City, ideal for a business trip or a romantic stay. Located on Paseo de la Reforma between Colonia Juarez and Roma Norte. A large indoor garden, gym, swimming pool, spa, restaurant, and bar, Around 640$usd per night!

Find the best deals on flights to Mexico

Mexico City International Airport (Benito Juárez) is the busiest airport in Latin America, offering countless national and international connections.

To get the best price on your flight, use our Mexico flight comparison tool powered by Skyscanner — the easiest way to find cheap flights both within Mexico and abroad.

Rent a car in Mexico City

Renting a car is for sure the best way to explore Mexico and make the most of your stay!

While it’s not super useful to visit the city, having a car is a must to discover the rest of the country.

To rent a car, personally, I always use Booking.com Cars, for a few reasons:

• You can easily compare the rental cars prices between all the agencies: for sure the easiest way to find the best rate!
• Cancellation is often offered free of charge: no need to worry if you change your mind
• Booking Cars offers full insurance coverage at a lower price than the rental companies, so it’s an instant saving with no effort

Simply click on the green button to find your rental car at the best price:

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