What It’s Like to Dine at Malva (Ensenada)
A cypress-lined path leads you to a cozy country house nestled among the vineyards of Mina Penélope. The entrance is hidden by trees, as if to keep it a secret.
This is Malva, the restaurant of chef Roberto Alcocer, who recently received a Michelin star for his Valle restaurant in Oceanside (San Diego).
We choose to sit outside, on a wooden table with a stunning view of the landscape.
Before the first course arrives, we get to meet some of the animals that live at Malva: chickens, ducks, sheep and goats, guarded by 3 dogs that nap in the sun and barely notice us. There are also some dairy cows a bit further away.
We learn that everything here is local and organic. Besides the animals, the fruits and vegetables come from their own garden, where they use biodynamic and permaculture methods to grow healthy food for both the land and the people. The same goes for the vineyard, which is free of pesticides.
Malva started as a temporary project that was supposed to last only 3 to 6 months, but it became so popular that it’s still here after 6 years!
Back at the table, we’re offered a glass of Paso Uno from bodega Era, a special wine project by chef Roberto Alcocer and Veronica Santiago that has only a few labels. This one is a 2016 Malbec that aged for 6 months in French oak and then 6 months in American oak. It’s rich, elegant, and has lovely notes of black fruit.
I read the label: “El buen vino es prueba de que el amor existe”; good wine is proof that love exists. I have to admit that in this scenery, I feel like being romantic.
The first dish is a fish crudo – responsibly caught jurel (horse mackerel)- with Asian and Mexican flavors. It’s made with gochujang – a Korean sauce – homemade with miso paste, aguajillo pepper and pasilla chile, fermented for 6 months underground. It’s finished with sesame oil, coriander powder, avocado and radish flower.
The result is very fresh and delicious, with a touch of spice at the end.
The next dish is an aguachile, a Mexican dish based on shrimp, but here replaced by chayote at Malva. It’s served with beet, hibiscus flower, jícama relish, field mustard and coriander. It’s a very refreshing, well-balanced dish, with a hint of sourness, perfect for the summer sun.
We are then served the fish: a beautiful 150g piece of escolar, a rather fatty white fish, here deliciously crispy. It’s accompanied by wood-oven-roasted beet, candied cherry tomatoes and an orange purée. It’s a play of contrasts on the palate, as the zest and sugar of the purée break up the heaviness of the flesh.
Next comes what I’d call the Grail of Malva , because it’s the best duck I’ve ever eaten. Imagine: shredded duck gently marinated in herbs and mandarin orange for 8 hours. The accompanying black beans are cooked with the duck fat.
Onion, daikon, coriander, serrano pepper and avocado are added for even more flavor, lightness and color. A comforting mouthful, but without heaviness, while the spicy tips of the serrano pepper surprise the palate.
For the grand finale, we can’t skip the dessert: coulant de malva.
Malva, as in the name of the restaurant, but also as in the herb that grows abundantly on the property, and that is used in various ways in the kitchen.
The coulant – which has a flavor similar to matcha – is paired with a butter crumble and goat cheese ice cream. The interplay of textures is very intriguing.
As I finish my last bite, I remember something my father used to say: “When a speech is smooth, natural, and almost spontaneous, it’s because it’s been very well prepared.”
To me, Malva is exactly that. Fresh, local ingredients and great attention to detail create a table that is both honest and refined. We’ll come back.
All photos by Karla Acosta
Malva Restaurante
- Facebook / Instagram
- Address: Carretera Ensenada-Tecate Km 96, Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico
- Menu: 3, 6 or 9 courses
- 1pm to 8pm, Tuesdays closed
Rent a car to visit Valle de Guadalupe
To visit the Valle de Guadalupe, you’ll need to rent a car, because public transportation is very scarce.
And trust me on this: it’s better to choose a good car, because there are many unpaved roads, and I’ve already been stuck in a huge puddle with a small car!
To rent a car, personally, I always use Rentalcars.com, for a few reasons:
- You can easily compare the rental cars prices between all the agencies: for sure the easiest way to find the best rate!
- Cancellation is often offered free of charge: no need to worry if you change your mind
- Rentalcars offers full insurance coverage at a lower price than the rental companies, so it’s an instant saving with no effort
Simply click on the green button to find your rental car at the best price:
How to get to the Valle de Guadalupe
First you need to fly to Tijuana (e.g. Aeromexico, Interjet, Volaris, VivaAerobus, etc.). You can also reach Tijuana airport by bus from downtown San Diego.
To find a cheap flight to Tijuana and the best flights within Mexico, I recommend using our flight comparison tool in partnership with Skyscanner. You’ll get the best price guaranteed!
From Tijuana to the Valle de Guadalupe (1h30), there are two main routes:
- Escenica Tijuana-Ensenada/México 1D (which runs along the coast), then the Carretera Transpeninsular/Rosarito – Ensenada/México 1
- Mexicali-Tijuana/México 2D, then La Ruta del Vino/México 3
🚗 Rent a car
🗽 Book entrance tickets and guided visits
🏄 Book your sports activities
🌍 Take a travel insurance
🙎 Book a tour
✈️ Book your flight
You’re traveling in Mexico? These articles will help you!
Discover all my articles about Mexico: All my articles to help you plan your trip to Mexico are listed there.
- Casa de Piedra: Capturing the Essence of Baja California’s Wine and Cuisine
- Clos de Tres Cantos: A Sustainable Vision of Mexican Wine
- Malva Restaurant: A Country Table in Baja California by a Michelin-Starred Chef
- Santulan: A Sustainable and Wellbeing Oasis in Mexico’s Vineyards
- Vena Cava (Valle de Guadalupe): a Must on the Mexican Wine Route
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- Itinerary: 2 weeks in Mexico – Best itinerary to discover the Yucatan Peninsula and Chiapas!
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- Itinerary: 2 weeks in Yucatan – Epic Itinerary + All my Best Tips!
- Itinerary: 3 weeks in Yucatan – Best things to do in 20-21 days
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